Western Colorado Access Issues
Thompson Creek | Glenwood Canyon | Redstone Pillar | False Drool | The Drool
The Thompson Creek area became an instant hit with the midvalley crowd who typically had to choose between several other areas that are further from town. This crag gave locals a place to climb in their own backyard, and helped to create a sense of community not found at other local spots. Unbeknownst to the developers, the land where the climbing takes place has several special designations by the BLM. Neither of these regulations were posted at the trailhead, or on the BLM website. The developers thought they were dealing with regular BLM land, on which bolting always has been allowed..
Currently, a new resource managment plan is being formulated for the Glenwood Springs and Kremmling BLM offices. The RFCC and BLM worked together over the winter to come up with a short term arrangement to allow climbing at Thompson Creek while still preserving the primitive nature of the area until the new RMP is formulated.
The main points of the voluntary letter of agreement are:
- There is a voluntary limit of 9 climbers at any one time at the cliff. There will be a new sign in at the trail head so you'll be able to see if the crag is full and climb somewhere else.
- The BLM strongly felt the number of routes needed to be reduced to keep the numbers down. This was accomplished by removing the first hangers on half the routes, leaving 20 in place. The bolts themselves were not removed in the hope that once the new RMP is formulated, we will gain full access to the crag.
We feel this is a good compromise, and look forward to wokring further with the BLM to preserve access to this unique local climbing resource. If we fail to respect these voluntary measueres, our future access to the crag could be jeopardized. Spread the word to all the climbers that you know!
There are numerous crags in Glenwood Canyon, almost all of which have suspect access. If you cross the railroad tracks, you are tresspassing on private property.
To get to the Redstone Pillar you must cross private property that is posted with no trespassing signs. Historically climbers have been granted access to this area, even though others are not allowed. Please park in the town of Redstone and be discreet when approaching this climb. Walk single file along the side of the road and yield to any traffic. Leave the dog at home. Move quickly through the area by the house and be friendly to anyone you encounter along the way.
The False Drool lies on private property. The landowners, Al and Shirley, have had mixed encounters with ice climbers, from courteous climbers to idiots tromping around in their backyard. If you are going to check out this climb, please park on the road, not the housing division, and walk discreetly up the small streambed leading up to the climb. Do not walk on the property to either side of the creek. This south facing climb can be seen from the road and is often not in condition.
The Drool has been purchased by Pitkin County Open Space and future access has been preserved..